I have walked its neighborhoods, every one with a unique character of its own.

I have taken buses down its roads, the buildings and streets indicative of its inhabitants and blend of modernity and antiquity.

I have viewed it from the ground and from its terraces and hilltops.

I have looked upon it during daylight and during night.

I only wish that a camera could capture what my eyes have seen.

But, no photographer or painter could do it justice. To take in its magnitude and magnificence is a humbling event.

Swelling Beyond Belief

It is said that the city will open up and accommodate all those who gather in at the time of the coming of the Messiah. Until now, it was beyond my comprehension how that could occur. I had never realized how big it has become, and how there is still room to grow.

There are areas where the population is so dense that I am reminded of my grandmother’s stories of immigrant areas in New York City at the turn of the 20th century, with their bustling streets, vendors, children running all over, the air so think it was hard to breathe.

In some areas, there are signs up warning people not to enter the neighborhood if they are not modestly dressed. That means women must have long skirts or at least to mid-calf, with sleeves covering elbows, and in some instances down to the wrists.

Oh, I See

I often wondered why so many buildings have security bars on the windows on the upper floors where burglars cannot enter from the windows. It took me a year to realize that those bars were not for protection from theft, but rather to prevent children from falling out of the windows. There are no screens, and people open the windows and sit on the ledges to look out at the sights of the city.

There are areas where the buildings are architectural masterpieces, but devoid of human life. Some people from the U.S., France and other areas invest in Jerusalem, buying multi-million dollar apartments that remain empty except for a couple of weeks a year when the owners vacation in Israel.

But almost every area has buildings glistening from being built of Jerusalem stone. And more often than not, even the most modern and beautiful building will have laundry hanging from its windows because owning a dryer is a rare occurrence.

Shop Until You-Know-What

Shopping in Jerusalem is a shopaholic’s dream.

There are fantastic shuks with little stands or booths or alcoves where one can buy fresh fruit and vegetables, fresh fish, lamb, beef, and chicken. Also sold are shoes and sandals, colorful caftans and scarves, native Arab dress, religious objects and jewelry, silver and brass vases and urns, objects made from olive wood and Jerusalem stone, gold and silver, woven baskets, needlework.

Name it and you can find it in Jerusalem.

Besides the shuk, one can shop in the old city, in the Arab Quarter, Jewish Quarter, Christian Quarter, each with merchandise significant to the particular religion. Of course, there are also gigantic supermarkets, corner mom-and-pop stores, and zillions of shops that boggle my mind as to how they can survive with all the competition.

Praying at the Wall

Jerusalem is also home to the Kotel (also known as the Western Wall, the Wailing Wall),synagogues, mosques, churches.

All people are free to worship as they please since it has been under Jewish control. On occasion, I prayed quietly at the Kotel only to be disturbed by Moslem loudspeakers announcing their prayers at a decibel level reminiscent of a rock concert.

Some areas are totally religious, others secular, others a melting pot where all are accepted and actually get along with each other promoting the definition of Jerusalem as “City of Peace.”

Headwear Depends on Custom

Even within some of the religious areas, one can tell the population’s affiliation just by their attire. There is Black Hat, Round Fur Hat, black kippah (or yarmulke), colored kippah, knitted kippah, multicolored cap, and a myriad of other distinctions between the various Chassidic and Orthodox and modern Orthodox sects.

There are black suits, no suits, long black jackets, trousers going to mid-calf looking like knickers against white stockings (like something from the 17th century). Married women cover their hair by wearing scarves, snoods, kerchiefs, hats, sheitels (wigs), those also according to their community custom.

In other areas people look like typical Americans in shorts and sandals and crop tops or tank tops.

There is so much happening in Jerusalem that I will have to leave it for future discussion.

L'hitraot. Shachar

Shachar is the Hebrew name of a California-based attorney and former Los Angeles County Sheriff’s deputy who moved to Israel last year.