Dateline Jerusalem — Picture this: A quaint tree-lined street of various species of palm trees, giant oak trees, unique fern-like monkey puzzle trees, the scent of the orange trees and kumquat bushes permeating the air. There is a small town atmosphere as one walks down this main street that cuts through the center of Israel's 14th largest city, Rehovot. Dark orange tile-roofed, cream-colored flaking stucco buildings, over 100 years old, stand adjacent to modern aluminum and glass storefronts. The huge old shade trees, narrow alleys or passages jutting out from the main street, and outdoor cafes make even the new buildings look as if they belong with the old world charm of this picturesque street.
Sidewalks are bustling as pedestrians try to make their way to the hundreds of small shops along the avenue. There are bakeries and sidewalk cafes, small appliance stores, old-fashioned shoe and watch repair stands, boutiques and shoe stores with racks of clothes and tables of shoes set up outside their doors. Every other shop seems to be a bakery or shoe store. Imelda Marcos would be a very happy woman in Rehovot.
On a typical day, the street is buzzing with people enjoying the shopping and scenery. My friends and I often wonder if anyone works in Rehovot because it seems as though the entire city is out on the main drag. So many cafes, coffee-shops, kiosks, bakeries. It is not unusual to see people sitting outside at umbrella’d tables or under colorful awnings, sipping cappuccinos, lattes while savoring flaky pastries and burekas, or devouring pita bread filled with falafel balls, humus, Israeli salad, fried eggplant, french fries. Falafel kiosks are the fast food stands of Israel.
Burekas are either phyllo dough or puff pastry. They are filled with salty cheese or mashed potatoes or mushrooms or spinach or eggplant or tuna. Some are pizza flavored. The type of seed sprinkled on top and shape of the bureka indicate the filling inside. For example, Bulgarian salty cheese fills triangular shaped puff pastry with white sesame seeds on top, while potato fills rectangular phyllo dough burekas. Probably the most requested drink is cafe hafuch, known as an upside down cappuccino because of the order in which the coffee and milk are put into the cup. Cafe hafuch puts the milk in first as opposed to the coffee first in regular cappuccinos.
As Rehovot residents sit outside at shaded tables, people-watching as they enjoy their baked goods and snacks, they are serenaded by street musicians playing traditional folk and ethnic music. I have heard violins, guitars, flutes, accordions, trumpets, keyboards, harmonicas, even Jamaican drums. One woman performs on a melodica/melodion, a combination keyboard and wind instrument all in one. She plays the keyboard while blowing into the mouthpiece on top. I never had seen a melodica before coming to Israel. I never had seen a monkey puzzle tree, either. Both have become favorites.
L'hitraot. Shachar