Dateline Jerusalem – Driving in the direction of Be'er Sheva in the Negev Desert of southern Israel toward Moshav Nevatim, the home of Indian Jews from Cochi, India, I observed the miles of once arid Bedouin Arab land sold to the state of Israel. The operative word is “sold.” This land was not taken in battle, nor given to Israel via any political agreements. Since Israel is the only country in the world to cultivate most of its deserts, miles and miles of irrigated land abundant with fruit and vegetables could be seen along the way. Close to the Arab villages I could see camels and goats grazing.
My guided tour of Moshav Nevatim included a tour of their authentic Cochin Indian synagogue, the ceramic and ironworks gallery on the moshav, and the Cochin Jewry Heritage Center, which is a museum. We were treated to an authentic kosher Cochini buffet lunch. A moshav is a cooperative agricultural community similar to a kibbutz with an emphasis on community labor. The difference between a moshav and kibbutz is this: A moshav tends to have individually owned farms, homes, and profits while kibbutz residents share everything.
Cochin Jews are the smallest and oldest of the three major Jewish communities in India. My first client, when I practiced law in California, was a Bnei Israel Indian Jew from Bombay (Mumbai). Los Angeles has a very large Jewish Indian population. The Bnei Israel live in northern Israel. The Cochin are mostly in the south, but they have been dispersed throughout Israel. About 6,000 Cochin Jews live in Israel today, and only a dozen remain in India. One hundred and fifty families live on Moshav Nevatim.
It is believed Jews first settled in India after the destruction of King Solomon's Temple in 587 BCE. Many Jews of the time were spice traders. Because they were aware of India's tolerant Hindu rulers, they sought refuge there. The Hindu king gave permission for Jews to build synagogues, live freely, and own property. India was considered a substitute Jerusalem for them. Even today, most Indian Jews say there isn't anti-Semitism in India. The Jews of India got along with other religions. They lived beside them in the same towns. However, they were concentrated on “Jews Street” or “Synagogue Street” and in “Jews Town.”
For Cochin Jews, all communal life related to the synagogue, devotion and strict obedience to biblical Judaism, Jewish customs and traditions. Hebrew was taught to both men and women by rabbis and by teachers coming from Yemen. Songs and hymns were sung by both men and women, something that did not adhere to the Talmudic prohibition against women singing in public. The entire community joined in celebrations. It was not unusual for weddings to last three weeks! The color of women's clothing changed according to the holiday being observed. On Rosh Hashana, women wore red and white. On Yom Kippur, they wore white. On Sukkot, green. On Hoshana Rabbah they again wore white. On Simchat Torah, they wore red and other bright colors. In fact, Simchat Torah was the central holiday in the community.
What was unique about the Cochin Jews was the role women played in the family and in the synagogue. Women studied Torah and were literate. The wife made all decisions about home and family life. She did not go out to work. However, after coming to Israel, the Cochin Jewish women went out to work in the fields for the first time. Unlike Orthodox Jews, female Cochin Jews kissed the Torah, joined in Ha-ke-fot beside males, and then received a blessing from the eldest male member of the home. Respect for women is displayed in all aspects of Cochin Jewish life. For example, the Cochin synagogue had two bimahs, raised platforms from where the Torah is read during services. One is on the main floor where men pray, the other on the second floor where the women pray. The second bimah was to show respect for women and to make it easier for them to hear the reading of the Torah.
The synagogue on Moshav Nevatim is a replica of the Cochin synagogue in India. Two stories high, it is made of stone and has wood carvings. The bimah is in the center of the room, made of brass and teakwood. The first Prime Minister of Israel, David Ben-Gurion, put down the first stone in 1973. The pillars are decorated for Sukkot with the seven species native to Israel. The floor is black stone with colored specks. Red, white and blue form the color theme of the synagogue.
Cochin Jews eat chicken and fish as their main meats. Because kosher laws do not permit mixing meat and milk products, traditional Indian dishes marinating chicken in yogurt are marinated in lime juice instead. Also, rice is a staple and is often cooked with coconut milk, saffron and almonds. Vegetables like onions, potatoes, and tomatoes are often cooked in curry, coriander, and other fragrant spices. Rice flour is used for dumplings and breads.
The Cochin Indian Moshav Nevatim was a wonderful, fascinating, educational experience for me. I am now looking forward to visiting a moshav of the majority of Indian Jews, Bnei Israel, and comparing the two communities.
L'hitraot. Shachar